Okay, here's how to eliminate the reverse limiter but still have the light. Less than $10 in Radio Shack parts. You will need to solder wires to the new relay (or have a friend do it for you), but it's quite simple. Make sure to use shrink tube or electrical tape or hot melt glue on the relay's soldered joints and on the one wire left free after cutting (Green and Blue).
I suggest you do this in the battery box near the CDI since all the wires come to the largest of the 3 CDI connectors. Then velcro or double stick tape or somehow mount the new relay next to the starter relay.
I suggest you use quick splice connectors because they are very easy to splice into an exisitng wire. Else, cut away a bit of insulation, solder and then tape well! Nothing here is high current, so 24 gauge wire or so will do fine for your additions. (also available from Radio Shack).
EDIT: SOLDERING AND SHRINK TUBING THESE JOINTS WILL MAKE A BETTER, LONGER LASTING CONNECTION, THE E-Z SPLICES ARE SUGGESTED SOLELY FOR EASE OF CONNECTION FOR THOSE WHOSE SOLDERING SKILLS ARE LACKING. YOU CAN ALSO USE WATERPROOF WIRE NUTS MADE FOR SPRINKLER VALVES, AVAILABLE AT HOME DEPOT OR EQUIV. QM
How it works:
The relay is actuated when the reverse switch connects to ground (quad is NOT in reverse). When the relay is off (quad's IN reverse), the wiring is such that the relay pulls the reverse light connection to ground. The other end of the reverse light is already attached to key switch controlled 12V. This turns the reverse light on, but only if the key switch is on too. If the key switch is off, nothing gets powered.
Notice that the CDI's reverse switch connection is always connected to ground, so it won't ever turn on the limiter.
-QUADMANIAC
